Table of Contents
- Embracing the Holiday Atmosphere in Tbilisi
- Exploring the Best Christmas Markets
- Georgian Holiday Traditions and Culinary Delights
- Cozy Indoor Activities for Chilly Days
- Celebrating New Year’s Eve Like a Local
- Planning Your Winter Day Trips from Tbilisi
- Your December in Tbilisi
Tbilisi in December is a different city. The summer crowds thin out, temperatures drop just enough to make the cobblestone streets feel intimate, and the entire Old Town starts glowing with lights sometime around the second week of the month. Georgia celebrates Christmas on January 7 following the Orthodox calendar, which means December is all about New Year’s Eve: the biggest holiday of the year. The result is a city that feels festive without the commercial frenzy you might find in Western European capitals. Street vendors sell roasted chestnuts on Rustaveli Avenue, families gather around tables piled absurdly high with food, and there’s a warmth to the place that has nothing to do with the weather. If you’re wondering what to do in Tbilisi during December, the short answer is: eat, drink natural wine, wander through markets, and let the city pull you into its celebrations. The longer answer is everything below.
Embracing the Holiday Atmosphere in Tbilisi
December transforms Tbilisi into something that feels both ancient and celebratory. The city straddles East and West in a way that becomes especially visible during the holidays: you’ll see European-style Christmas trees alongside Georgian Orthodox traditions that predate most of what we associate with the season. Georgia’s winter tourism numbers have been climbing steadily over recent years, and December is a big part of that growth. Tbilisi isn’t trying to compete with Vienna or Prague for holiday tourism. It’s doing its own thing, and that’s exactly what makes it worth visiting.
The city’s decorations typically go up in early December. Rustaveli Avenue gets wrapped in lights, Freedom Square hosts a massive tree, and smaller neighborhoods like Sololaki and Vera put up their own modest displays. What strikes most visitors is how communal the atmosphere feels. Georgians treat the holiday season as a reason to gather, and that spirit of supra (the traditional feast) extends to strangers. Don’t be surprised if a shopkeeper offers you a glass of wine or a taxi driver insists on telling you about his grandmother’s gozinaki recipe.
December Weather and Packing Essentials
Tbilisi in December averages between 0°C and 7°C (32°F to 45°F), though it can dip below freezing at night. Snow is possible but not guaranteed: the city might get a dusting or two, but heavy snowfall is more common in the mountains. Rain is the bigger concern, with December being one of the wetter months.
Pack layers. A solid waterproof jacket, a warm sweater, and comfortable walking shoes with good grip are non-negotiable. The Old Town’s streets are uneven and can get slippery. I’d also recommend a scarf and gloves for evening walks along the Mtkvari River, where the wind picks up. If you’re planning day trips to the mountains, bring proper winter gear: temperatures in Gudauri or Kazbegi can drop to -15°C.
Key December Events at a Glance (Data Table)
| Event | Typical Dates | Location | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Christmas Village Opening | December 12-15 | First Republic Square | Free entry |
| Tree Lighting Ceremony | Mid-December | Freedom Square | Free |
| Orbeliani Square Market | Late November – January 2 | Orbeliani Square | Free entry |
| New Year’s Eve Celebrations | December 31 | Citywide, centered on Rustaveli Ave | Free (street events) |
| Sulfur Bath Extended Hours | Throughout December | Abanotubani district | 50-150 GEL per session |
| Wine Tastings & Cellar Events | Throughout December | Various locations | 30-80 GEL |
Exploring the Best Christmas Markets
Tbilisi’s Christmas markets aren’t as old or as large as their German or Austrian counterparts, but they’ve developed a character of their own. The city has invested heavily in its holiday infrastructure over the past few years, and the markets reflect a blend of Georgian craftsmanship, street food culture, and genuine community gathering. You won’t find mass-produced ornaments here: expect handmade ceramics, wool products from highland villages, and enough churchkhela (the walnut-and-grape candy often called “Georgian Snickers”) to fill a suitcase.
First Republic Square Village
The Christmas Village at First Republic Square has become Tbilisi’s flagship holiday market. The city typically launches this market around December 12, and it runs through early January. Wooden stalls line the square, selling everything from enamel jewelry to hand-knitted socks to bottles of chacha (Georgian grape brandy). There’s usually a small ice rink, a stage for live performances, and enough mulled wine stands to keep you warm through an entire evening.
What makes this market worth your time is the food. Vendors sell fresh khinkali (Georgian dumplings) for about 1-2 GEL each, along with lobiani (bean-stuffed bread), grilled corn, and roasted chestnuts. The atmosphere peaks after 6 PM when families arrive and musicians start playing. Budget about 30-50 GEL for a solid evening of snacking and browsing. The market is a five-minute walk from Liberty Square metro station, making it easy to reach from anywhere in the city.
Orbeliani Square Festivities
Orbeliani Square, located near the famous Orbeliani Baths, hosts its own smaller but equally charming market. This one tends to feel more local: fewer tourists, more neighborhood families, and a selection of stalls that lean toward traditional Georgian goods. You’ll find cloisonné enamel work (a centuries-old Georgian craft called minankari), woolen felt items, and honey from different regions. The square itself is beautifully lit, and the blue-tiled facade of the Orbeliani Baths provides a stunning backdrop.
The food stalls here often feature regional specialties you won’t find at the bigger market: Imeretian cheese bread, Adjarian-style khachapuri, and sometimes even Kakhetian barbecue. Prices tend to be slightly lower than at First Republic Square. If you visit on a weekend evening, expect live folk music and, if you’re lucky, traditional polyphonic singing, which UNESCO recognizes as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Georgian Holiday Traditions and Culinary Delights
Georgian holiday traditions are deeply rooted in Orthodox Christianity, pre-Christian folk customs, and a food culture that treats every gathering as an excuse for a feast. The Georgian word for guest, stumari, comes from the phrase “stumari ghvtisaa,” meaning “a guest is from God.” This isn’t just a saying: it’s a lived philosophy that becomes especially visible during the holiday season. December in Tbilisi offers a window into traditions that have survived centuries of empire, occupation, and cultural change.
The Legend of the Chichilaki
If you see what looks like a small, shaved wooden tree decorated with fruits and candies in Georgian homes or market stalls, that’s a chichilaki. This traditional Georgian Christmas tree is made from dried hazelnut or walnut branches that are shaved into thin, curling strips, creating something that resembles a miniature white tree or a beard. The chichilaki predates the adoption of European-style Christmas trees in Georgia and is still handmade by families, especially in western regions like Guria and Samegrelo.
The tradition holds that the chichilaki is burned on the night of January 7 (Orthodox Christmas Eve), symbolically taking away the sins and troubles of the past year. You can buy them at markets throughout Tbilisi in December, typically for 10-30 GEL depending on size. They make for unusual, lightweight souvenirs, and buying one supports artisans who keep this centuries-old craft alive. Some families display both a chichilaki and a Western-style tree, a visual metaphor for how Georgia constantly bridges old and new.
Seasonal Treats: Gozinaki and Churchkhela
No Georgian holiday table is complete without gozinaki: flat, diamond-shaped candies made from caramelized honey and toasted walnuts. These are crunchy, intensely sweet, and sold everywhere in December, from supermarkets to grandmothers sitting on street corners with homemade batches. A kilogram costs roughly 15-25 GEL, and the homemade versions are always better than the packaged ones.
Churchkhela is available year-round, but December brings special holiday varieties. The classic version involves stringing walnuts on a thread, dipping them repeatedly in thickened grape juice (tatara), and drying them for weeks. During the holidays, you’ll find versions made with hazelnuts, almonds, and even dried fruits. A single churchkhela costs 3-7 GEL at markets. Pair these sweets with a glass of amber wine, and you’ve got the quintessential Georgian December experience. Look for churchkhela vendors at the Dezerter Bazaar, Tbilisi’s largest open-air market, where you can also stock up on spices, dried fruits, and wheels of sulguni cheese.
Cozy Indoor Activities for Chilly Days
December days in Tbilisi are short: sunset arrives around 5:30 PM, and the temperature drops quickly after dark. The city is built for this, though. Between the sulfur baths, wine bars, and cozy restaurants, you could spend an entire rainy afternoon indoors and feel like you’ve had a full day of exploration.
Relaxing in the Abanotubani Sulfur Baths
The sulfur baths in the Abanotubani district are one of Tbilisi’s defining experiences, and December is arguably the best time to visit. The naturally heated water (around 40-50°C) feels incredible when it’s cold outside, and the baths are less crowded in winter than during peak summer months. The district has several bathhouses, ranging from the ornate Orbeliani Baths (with its famous blue mosaic facade) to the more affordable Bathhouse No. 5.
A private room at a mid-range bathhouse costs about 80-120 GEL per hour and typically includes a hot pool, a cold plunge, and the option to book a kisi scrub (a vigorous exfoliation with a rough wool mitt) for an additional 20-40 GEL. Public baths are cheaper at around 5-10 GEL per person but offer less privacy. I’d recommend booking a private room at the Royal Bath House or Gulo’s Thermal Spa for the best combination of atmosphere and value. Go in the late afternoon, then walk uphill to a nearby restaurant for dinner: the sequence of hot bath, cold air, and warm food is practically a Tbilisi ritual.
Wine Tasting in Underground Cellars
Georgia has been making wine for roughly 8,000 years, and December is a perfect time to explore that heritage indoors. Several wine bars and cellars throughout Tbilisi offer tastings that go beyond the usual pour-and-sip routine. Vino Underground on Tabidze Street specializes in natural wines from small producers and offers guided tastings for about 40-60 GEL. Wine Gallery on Baratashvili Street has a broader selection and a knowledgeable English-speaking staff.
For something more immersive, visit the G. Vino restaurant and wine bar, where you can try qvevri wines (fermented in traditional clay vessels buried underground) paired with seasonal Georgian dishes. A full tasting with food at one of Tbilisi’s top wine-focused restaurants typically runs 80-150 GEL per person. If you’re serious about Georgian wine, ask about amber wines made from the Rkatsiteli grape: they’re unlike anything you’ve tasted elsewhere, with a tannic, almost tea-like quality that pairs perfectly with the rich, walnut-heavy cuisine of winter.
Celebrating New Year’s Eve Like a Local
New Year’s Eve is the main event. Georgians go all out: the supra table groans under dozens of dishes, toasts flow endlessly under the guidance of a tamada (toastmaster), and fireworks light up the sky over the Mtkvari River at midnight. The city prepares extensively for the celebration, with Rustaveli Avenue closing to traffic and filling with thousands of people.
If you’re lucky enough to score an invitation to a Georgian home for New Year’s Eve, accept it immediately. The supra will include satsivi (turkey or chicken in walnut sauce), roasted pork, multiple types of khachapuri, pickled vegetables, and enough wine to last until dawn. Each toast follows a specific order: to God, to Georgia, to the departed, to the hosts, to children. The tamada leads, and guests are expected to drink along. If you don’t drink alcohol, say so early: Georgians are understanding, and you can toast with lemonade or mineral water without anyone taking offense.
For those without a private invitation, the street celebrations on Rustaveli Avenue are genuinely fun. Live music stages, food vendors, and a general atmosphere of joy make it easy to ring in the new year surrounded by strangers who feel like friends. Dress warmly: you’ll be outside for hours. Many restaurants also host special New Year’s Eve dinners, but book well in advance. Popular spots like Shavi Lomi, Barbarestan, and Culinarium fill up weeks before December 31. Expect to pay 150-300 GEL per person for a prix fixe New Year’s dinner with wine.
Planning Your Winter Day Trips from Tbilisi
Tbilisi makes an excellent base for December day trips, provided you’re prepared for mountain weather. Gudauri, Georgia’s premier ski resort, sits about two hours north and typically has reliable snow by mid-December. A day of skiing costs roughly 60-80 GEL for a lift pass, with equipment rental adding another 40-60 GEL. Marshrutkas (minibuses) run from Didube station, or you can hire a driver for about 150-200 GEL round trip.
Mtskheta, the ancient capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is only 20 minutes from Tbilisi and makes for a peaceful half-day trip. The Jvari Monastery, perched on a hilltop overlooking the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, is especially atmospheric in winter fog. Entrance is free, and a taxi from Tbilisi costs about 25-35 GEL each way.
For something more adventurous, the drive toward Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) offers dramatic winter scenery, though road conditions can be unpredictable. Check conditions before heading out, and consider hiring a local driver with a 4×4 rather than renting a car yourself. The Gergeti Trinity Church against the backdrop of Mount Kazbek covered in snow is one of the most photographed scenes in the Caucasus, and December’s low tourist numbers mean you might have the trail to yourself.
Your December in Tbilisi
A December trip to Tbilisi offers something increasingly rare: a holiday experience that feels genuine rather than manufactured. The city isn’t performing festiveness for tourists. Georgians celebrate with an intensity that comes from deep cultural roots, and visitors simply get swept along. Whether you spend your days soaking in sulfur baths and tasting amber wine or wandering through holiday markets under twinkling lights, the city rewards curiosity and openness.
Book your accommodation in the Old Town or Vera neighborhood for the best walking access to markets, restaurants, and baths. Download Bolt for taxis (it’s cheaper and more reliable than hailing one on the street), grab an offline Georgian language pack on Google Translate, and bring a flexible stomach. Tbilisi in December isn’t about checking boxes on a sightseeing list. It’s about sitting at a table, raising a glass, and letting a 1,500-year-old city show you how it celebrates.